How to Install a Weldable Exhaust Heat Shield
Posted by Matthew Marks on 13th Aug 2026
How to Install the Exoracing Weldable Exhaust Heat Shield
Make the paper template first, fit the insulation as its own layer, then form and weld the stainless outer skin. This guide follows our real downpipe and screamer-pipe installation from start to finish.
This is an advanced fabrication job. It needs careful measuring, safe handling of thin stainless and a suitable resistance spot welder.
We made this shield for the exhaust assembly on our own AWD turbo Civic build. The aim is to contain exhaust heat around the downpipe and screamer pipe, but temperature testing is still to come.
A weldable exhaust heat shield gives you a close-fitting outer skin around a manifold, downpipe or other suitable exhaust section. On this job, the most time-intensive part was working out the shapes and welder setup. Once the patterns were right, the shields could be formed and installed cleanly around the two pipes.
In our installation, the larger pipe is the downpipe. The smaller pipe is the screamer pipe. They use the same basic method, but they are separate components and should not be confused.
This page covers installation only. The video does not contain temperature-test results, so this guide does not use it as proof of a measured temperature change.
The simple answer
Start with a paper template and keep checking it against the bare downpipe. Transfer the approved shape to the insulation, then use the same pattern for the stainless outer skin.
Form the stainless a little at a time. Check that each overlap sits flat before you tack or spot weld it. Once the downpipe shield is complete, repeat the method on the smaller screamer pipe.
Let the work cool, then inspect every seam and finished edge before the parts go back on the car.
- Remove the exhaust part from the car where practical and let it cool fully.
- Clean the metal and mark every flange, sensor, joint and access point that must stay clear.
- Plan the paper template, insulation sections, stainless sections and welded seams before cutting the kit.
- Use cut-resistant gloves, eye protection and suitable welding controls.
- Stop if you cannot control sharp edges, welding fume, sparks or nearby flammable material.
Watch: How to install the Exoracing weldable exhaust heat shield on a downpipe and screamer pipe
If the player is blocked, watch the weldable heat-shield installation on YouTube.
Tools and materials you need
The Exoracing DIY Weldable Exhaust Heat Shield Kit supplies the embossed stainless outer sheet, adhesive-backed insulation and two logo plates. Cutting, forming and welding tools are not included.
- Paper or thin card for the template
- Marker pen, ruler and tape measure
- Suitable scissors for the paper and insulation
- Suitable metal-cutting and forming tools
- Cut-resistant gloves and eye protection
- A suitable resistance spot welder and a small scrap piece for setup checks
- Cleaning and degreasing materials that are safe for the job
- Suitable ventilation, fire controls and a clear work area
Which spot welder did we use?
We used an AWithZ 9000W portable battery-powered spot welder. We deliberately chose one of the cheapest suitable machines we could find to show that a one-off DIY installation does not require the most expensive welder on the market.
At the time of writing, this is the spot welder we bought. Product listings, specifications and availability can change over time, so check the current listing and make sure the machine is suitable for the material before ordering.
How it works: a resistance spot welder sends a very short, high-current pulse through the electrode tips and the overlapping stainless. Electrical resistance creates concentrated heat at the contact area, fusing the two stainless layers at a small spot. It joins the overlap with a series of individual welds rather than laying down a continuous bead.
How to use it on this kit:
- Charge and set up the welder exactly as its manufacturer instructs, and make sure the electrode tips are clean and secure.
- Form the stainless first so the overlap lies flat. Keep the insulation out of the stainless-to-stainless seam.
- Place the electrode tips firmly and evenly on the overlapping stainless, hold the work still and trigger the short welding pulse as directed by the machine's instructions.
- Start with test welds on unused offcuts. Inspect the result and increase the setting gradually only if needed; excessive output can burn through or distort this thin stainless.
- Once the test is secure, add spaced welds along the seam, letting the metal and welder cool as required. Recheck the fit after the first few spots before completing the join.
An entry-level portable welder like this can be enough for a one-off DIY job. If you expect to make these shields regularly or use the welder day in, day out, we recommend investing in a higher-quality professional machine with better consistency, duty cycle and support.
View the Spot Welder We BoughtWelding safety comes before the finish
Work on a cool, removed component where practical. Keep fuel, batteries, wiring, trim, cleaning vapour and other flammable material away from the hot-work area.
The UK Health and Safety Executive also requires welding fume to be controlled. Its welding-control guidance explains the need for ventilation or extraction and suitable protection.
Resistance spot welding produces less fume than many arc-welding methods, but it is not risk-free.
Use eye protection against splatter, follow the welder's instructions and stop if you cannot control the work area safely.
1. Make the paper template on the bare downpipe
Mark where the shield should start and finish. Shape the paper around the bare downpipe and check the fit before cutting any insulation or stainless.
Tight bends take time. Think of each pie-cut bend as if you were flattening its surface onto the paper. On our Civic parts, curved diamond-shaped sections worked well around the bends. Build and refine one section at a time instead of forcing one large sheet to follow every change in direction.
If one paper piece will not sit flat, split the pattern into smaller pieces and join them. A clean paper pattern is much cheaper to correct than a badly cut stainless section. This stage was slow on our build, but it was worth the time for a neater finished shield.
2. Transfer the template to the insulation
Once the paper fits, copy the shape onto the insulation and cut it out. Fit the insulation as its own clear stage. Keep it flat against the downpipe and make sure its edges meet cleanly.
Leave flanges, sensor positions, joints and any area that still needs access clear. Plan where the stainless will overlap. The product instructions call for the insulation to finish short of a planned stainless seam so the two steel layers can lie flat together.
3. Cut and form the stainless outer skin
Use the checked paper pattern to mark the embossed stainless. Wear cut-resistant gloves. The 0.1 mm stainless is thin, and its cut edges are very sharp.
Cut the section carefully, then form it around the insulated downpipe a little at a time. Do not try to force the full curve in one move. Gradual forming gives you more control and makes it easier to correct a tight spot before welding.
4. Check the fit and overlap
Keep checking the overlap while you form each section. It should lie flat without lifting the shield away from the pipe or leaving the insulation loose underneath.
The live kit instructions use about 20 mm of stainless overlap at each welded seam. Treat that as a planning guide, then check the real shape in front of you. Tight curves may need smaller pieces and extra care to keep the seam flat.
5. Tack, spot weld and inspect the seam
Finding the welder setup was the hardest part of our installation. Always test the welder on a small unused piece first and adjust it there before touching a finished shield section.
Voltage or output, pulse time, electrode condition and hand pressure can all change the result. There is no single setting that suits every machine.
Once the outer skin sits correctly, add the first tacks and check the seam again. If the material has not moved, finish the join with the correct method for the stainless and your equipment.
Allow the part to cool. Then inspect the whole seam, every exposed edge and the clearance around flanges and access points. Deal with sharp or lifted edges before refitting the part.
6. Repeat the method on the screamer pipe
The screamer pipe is the smaller pipe in this installation. It is not the downpipe. Make a new template for its shape, then repeat the insulation and stainless outer-skin stages.
A smaller diameter does not mean you can skip the checks. Mark the ends, plan each overlap and keep the outer skin flat before welding. On an awkward bend, several controlled sections are often easier to shape than one large piece.
7. Check the completed shields
The completed downpipe shield should have secure seams, contained insulation and no unfinished sharp edges. Check that the work does not block a flange, sensor, clamp or joint that needs access.
Apply the same cool-seam and edge checks to the separate screamer-pipe shield. This is the finished installation stage. It is separate from the bare-metal, insulation and forming stages shown earlier. It is also not a temperature-test result.
Start and finish points, bends, flanges, sensors and planned seams are marked before the kit is cut.
The material sits flat, access areas stay clear and planned stainless seams have room to close.
Each section follows the shape and the overlap lies flat without loose insulation underneath.
Seams are secure, edges are safe, and the shield does not block parts that need access.
The kit used in this guide
This kit is for experienced DIY fabricators and professional workshops that want to make a close-fitting shield around suitable exhaust pipework. Measure the job before ordering and allow material for curves, trimming and welded overlaps.
Exoracing DIY Weldable Exhaust Heat Shield Kit 1000mm x 600mm
Embossed stainless and adhesive-backed insulation for fabricating a custom shield around suitable exhaust components.
From £169.99
Common weldable heat-shield mistakes
Cutting the stainless before the paper fits
This wastes material and makes tight bends harder to correct. Keep changing the paper until its start, finish and seam positions make sense.
Treating the insulation and finished shield as one stage
The insulation must fit first. The stainless outer skin is then formed over it. If you rush both layers together, it is harder to see why a seam is raised, or a section does not sit correctly.
Covering a flange, sensor or service joint
Mark every access point on the paper and transfer those marks to both materials. Recheck before each tack. A neat shield is not useful if routine exhaust work means cutting it apart.
Welding a raised overlap
Stop and reshape it. Welding a poor fit does not remove the underlying tension. Check that the insulation is not trapped beneath the stainless-to-stainless seam.
Using the downpipe pattern on the screamer pipe
The method repeats, but the parts have different shapes and sizes. Make a separate pattern for the smaller screamer pipe.
When this kit is not the right first job
Do not use a fabricated shield to hide a cracked exhaust, oil or fuel leak, damaged wiring, unsafe hose routing or a loose component. Repair the fault and improve routing first.
Choose another solution when you do not have the tools or skill to cut, form and spot weld thin stainless safely.
A suitable section of exhaust wrap may be the simpler source-control option.
A separate rigid barrier may be better when you need an air gap between the exhaust and a floor, bulkhead or vulnerable part.
If you are unsure which type of protection fits the problem, use our car heat-protection selector. It starts with the heat source, the part at risk and the available clearance.
Weldable exhaust heat shield FAQs
Why should I start with a paper template?
Paper is quick to trim and join. It lets you solve the bends, seam positions and access points before you cut the insulation or stainless supplied in the kit.
How do I shape a template around tight bends?
Think of the pie-cut bend as a surface you need to flatten onto paper. Work around one bend at a time and check the shape often. Curved diamond-shaped sections worked well on our Civic parts. If one piece will not sit flat, split it into smaller sections and join them in a controlled position.
Does the insulation go under the stainless outer skin?
Yes. Fit and check the insulation first. Form the stainless outer skin over it afterwards. Keep the insulation short of planned stainless-to-stainless seam areas so the overlap can sit flat.
How much should the stainless overlap?
The current Exoracing kit instructions use about 20 mm as the planning figure for each welded seam. Check the actual curve and make sure the overlap lies flat before welding.
Can I use one welder setting for the whole job?
Do not assume so. Test a small unused stainless offcut first. Machine output, pulse time, electrode condition and applied pressure can all change the weld.
Does the screamer pipe use the same installation method?
Yes. The smaller screamer pipe repeats the template, insulation and stainless outer-skin method, but it needs its own pattern for its own shape.
Does this installation video include a temperature test?
No. It shows the fabrication and completed shields. It does not present temperature-test results, so no measured temperature claim should be taken from this video.
Final installation advice
The cleanest result starts before the stainless is cut. Get the paper pattern right, treat the insulation as a separate layer, form the outer skin slowly and check every overlap before welding.
Keep the downpipe and screamer pipe separate in your plan. Inspect every cool seam and edge at the end. If you are not confident with the cutting, forming or welding work, use a professional fabricator.
You can browse the wider Exoracing heat-management range, or contact Exoracing for heat-management help if you are unsure which product suits the heat source and the part you need to protect.
Shop the Weldable Exhaust Heat Shield KitAbout the Author
Matt is the owner of Exoracing who are a UK-based heat-management and performance-parts specialist. Since 2018, the team has helped enthusiasts and workshops choose and fit protection for turbos, manifolds, downpipes, hoses, wiring and other parts on modified cars.
This guide was created from our downpipe and screamer-pipe installation video.